牛仔新搭 THE NEW WAY TO WEAR DENIM
如果你和我们1样，你就会把你衣柜里的牛仔单品当做老朋友。跟我们能够保持如此久长的关系的面料真的很少。我们大多数人每天都会穿牛仔面料的单品，看着它渐渐变旧，就像我们本身的改变那样。或许是牛仔服装塑造了我们自己的风格（比如，原始的牛仔纯洁主义者，乃至是穿着自己的紧身牛崽裤洗澡，以确保最好的版型和退色效果），或或许只是1件非常耐穿的衣物。不管如何，我们仿佛对它有1种不1样的爱。
If you’re anything like us, you regard thedenimin yourwardrobelike an old friend. There are very few materials with which we have such a long-lasting relationship. Most of us wear denim day in, day out, watching it mature and change as we do. Perhaps it’s down to the way denim garments shape themselves to us (raw denim purists, for instance, even take baths wearing theirselvedge jeansto ensure the best possible fit and fade), or perhaps it’s the fact it’s so hardwearing. Whatever it is, we seem to have a love affair with it like no other.
但是，就像任何关系1样，很容易堕入窘境。在牛仔布的世界里，要探索的东西远比深蓝色牛崽裤（虽然他们固然有自己的位置）要多很多。由于牛仔面料有各种不同的水洗、色彩、版型和传统类型，但是这个季节还有更多的选择，由于许多设计师都重新斟酌牛仔布。为了给你更好的帮助，下面这些搭配和单品推荐是最合适你的牛仔系列穿搭指南。
But, just as with any relationship, it’s easy to get stuck in a rut. An合肥工服定做厂家d there’s so much more to explore in the world of denim thanindigo slim-cut jeans(although they do, of course, have their place). There is a variety of different washes, colours, fits and denim types out there, but this season there is even more choice as denim hoves back into view for manydesigners. To help, here is your sure-fire guide to getting the most out of your denim.
工作装
WORKWEAR
1871年，牛崽裤发明，开始是为干粗活用的工作服。创新的地方是在接缝中添加了铆钉，使其经久耐用。他们是由质量较重的Twill棉花制成，很快就成了“辛苦的1天”的代名词。如今，工作服的潮流又东山再起了，牛仔茄克是1种理想的搭配，可让你的整体穿着效果更合身。试着穿上你的宽腿斜纹棉布裤来更新1下这款经典款式。
Jeans were invented in 1871 as stoutworkwear. It was the innovative addition of rivets in the seams that made them so durable. The heavyweight cotton twill they were made from quickly became synonymous with a hard day’s graft. Today机关购置工作服的请示, the workwear trend is back with a vengeance,and a denimchore jacketis an ideal way to build it into your outfit. Try wearing yours with wide-legchinosfor a fresh update on this classic look.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
Chimala
Officine Generate
Mr P.
Converse
Brunello Cucinelli
漂白与做旧
BLEACHED AND DISTRESSED
漂白或做旧的牛仔布会给服装带来1定的复古感。关键是要避免穿破的牛崽裤和过时的烂衫，取而代之的是看起来和感觉都很自然的牛仔布。这类退色的、直筒式的牛崽裤在20世纪80年代就开始流行了，这就是为何它们能很好地搭配柔软的灰色半拉链运动衫和厚实的运动鞋。与此同时，牛仔茄克与其他运动服会搭配得很好。
Bleachedordistressed denimlends a certainretroedge to an outfit. The key is to avoid the pre-ripped jeans and the badly executed fades of yesteryear, and instead opt for denim that looks and feels like it’s aged naturally. The bleached, straight-leg jeans here are as 1980s as it gets, which is why they work so well with the soft grey half-zipsweatshirtand chunkysneakers. Thedenim jacket, meanwhile, plays nicely with the other nods tosportswearin the rest of the outfit.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
Pop Trading Company
AMI
Acne Studio
ROA
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
FRAME
J.Crew
You As
Raf Simons
The Elder Statesman
牛仔套装
DOUBLE DENIM
哈哈，这可是加拿大的燕尾服啊！开个玩笑了。穿1套牛仔装是1种很需要技能的穿搭方式，只要你把它弄对了，就像在这里推荐的搭配1样，这类双拳组合可以是1把双刃剑。最好选择深蓝牛仔布，这样可让所有的单品都充满层次感和成熟味。在这类情况下，牛崽裤和茄克衫都应选择同1品牌的，这意味着这两件单品是相配的。再加上1件卷领毛衣，看起来更帅气了。虽然这不是真实的燕尾服，但很贴近了。
Ah, the Canadiantuxedo.Double denimis a tricky look to pull off, but when you get it right, as here, this two-punch combo can be a knockout. It’s a good idea to begin with a darker, indigo denim, which keeps everything feeling up-market and mature. In this case, both the slim-fit jeans and the jacket are from the same brand, which means the two garments match. The addition of aroll-neck sweatersmartens up the look even further. Hey, it’s not a real tuxedo, but it’s close.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
石家庄城市猎人工作服厂家Mr P.
SALLE PRIV€€E
Mr P.
Thom Browne
补钉系列
PATCHWORK
有时你只需要把各种东西混搭1下就好。在20世纪60年代和70年代流行的拼贴画，和许多日本品牌在2010年推出的产品，无疑到达了这1目的。它乃至给最慎重的服装带来了1定的自由、创意和波希米亚的风格。在这里，1件简单的衬衫可让1件短上衣变得柔和，这款衬衫被剪得很长，以打破结构上的混合。超喜欢它。
Sometimes you just need to mix things up a bit. The addition of patchwork, popular in the 1960s and1970sand proffered by manyJapanese brandsin the 2010s, certainly achieves that end. It gives even the most staid outfit a certain carefree, creative, boho edge. Here, a statement jacket is toned down with a simple shirt, which is cut long to break up the textural mix. We like it.
图片来源/PHOTO: M宝沃销售工作服R. PORTER
KAPITAL
COMME DES GAR€€ONS
Chimala
Tricker's
KAPITAL
Junya Watanabe
James Perse
Vetements
Visvim
修身牛崽裤
SKINNY JEANS
是的，紧身牛崽裤已流行有1段时间了。这固然是有缘由的，如果穿的正确，他们会给任何穿搭增加1种有棱有角的优雅，谁不想要呢？在这类情况下，破洞的、水洗的、紧身的牛仔布非常合适搭配了1件印有标语的T恤和大号印花衬衫。这1造型灵感来自于加州的滑板文化，这就是为何奶白色的Vans运动鞋能完善搭配这类牛崽裤。
Yes,skinny jeanshave been for around a while. And there’s a reason for that. When worn correctly, they add an angular elegance to any silhouette, and who doesn’t want that? In this case, the ripped, stone-washed, skinny denim on offer has been teamed with aslogan T-shirtand oversized,floral-print shirt. The look is inspired by Californian skate culture, which is why the creamVanssneakers work so well.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
Dries Van Noten
Gucci
Saint Laurent
Vans
Miansai
白色牛仔
WHITE DENIM
要想把白色牛仔布用得出彩的窍门是让1切都变得简单和经典。选择中性色彩来补充它是1个好的开始。特别是灰色，搭配会很南京宿舍管理员工作服完善。在这类情况下，穿1件厚实的毛衣特别能体现出某种跨季节时段的舒适。白色的牛仔茄克有1种有点宽松风的感觉，可以搭配侧面有条纹的长裤和polo衫来得到1些中和。
The trick to pulling offwhite denimis to keep everything simple and classic. Choosing neutral colours to complement it is a good start.Greys, in particular, work perfectly. In this look, the decision to gosockless, while wearing a chunkysweater, speaks of a certain trans-seasonal comfort. Thewhite denim jackethas a somewhat boxy fit, which is given some refinement from theside-stripe trousersandpolo shirt.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
CMMN SWDN
Dries Van Noten
Saint Laurent
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
浦发工作服Thom Browne
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli
卷裤脚
SELVEDGE
你可以通过检查内侧腿的接缝来决定是不是应当给1条牛崽裤卷上裤脚。如果是用红色或橙色的带子来做的接缝，它们就应当被卷起来，也就是说，这类布料是用传统的短织机织成的，而不是从宽的布料上剪下来的。牛仔纯洁主义者偏向于夸耀他们的牛崽裤，让全球都能看到。可以卷上裤脚的牛崽裤与工作服搭配得会特别好。而在工作日以外，如果想提升整体穿搭效果，可以加上1件来自Sacai的漂洗格子衬衫和1件简单的条纹T恤。
You can identify a pair of selvedge jeans by checking the inside-leg seam. If it’s finished with a band of red or orange, they’re selvedge, meaning that the fabric has been woven on a traditional short loom, rather than cut from a wide swatch of material. Denim purists tend to show off byturning uptheir jeans for all the world to see. Selvedge jeans marry particularly well with the workwear look,but in this case, the whole effect is lifted beyond the workaday with the addition of a bleached plaidovershirtfromSacaiand a simplestriped tee.
图片来源/PHOTO: MR. PORTER
Sacai
Junya Watanabe
RRL
Red Wing Shoes
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